Thursday, February 18, 2010
#10 Lunch with guards at a checkpoint (near Sanaa, Yemen, Feb 2010)
Paul and I explored last Thursday, our weekend. We drove north and then west until the check point near Wadi Dhahr. Paul tried his best to talk our way through, but to no avail. The guards were friendly, but steadfast in their refusal to let us pass. But they invited us to lunch.
Saturday, February 6, 2010
# 9 On the roof of Dar al-Hajar (Palace on the Rock), Wadi Dhahr, Yemen
Originally uploaded by Kate B Dixon
The *castle-on-the-rock* in Wadi Dhahr is within the Sanaa security perimeter, so one can drive there without permission. I drove there on a Friday morning with a young French woman who opted to ignore her oil company’s order not to go without a body guard. I was rather surprized to see so many local tourists enjoying the view and snapping photos on the roof of the palace. On the plaza below men and boys danced the traditional jimbaya wedding dance to the beat of drums.
Friday, February 5, 2010
#8: A veiled woman in al-Saleh Mosque
The International Women’s Association trip to the controversial al-Saleh Mosque was on Thursday morning, so I could go (Friday is the muslim sabbath, so weekends here are Thur-Fri).
“You mean the mosque built on money stolen from the people of Yemen”, Tanya yelled when I mentioned that I was going.
“Think of how many clinics and schools that would pay for,” she continued. “Only the president’s cronies would be caught dead there.”
Quite a few people in Yemen consider the mosque to be an abomination, the expense a huge drain on a poor country. But others consider the al-Saleh Mosque to be a *national wonder of Yemen*.
Named after President Ali Abdullah Saleh, the mosque was opened during Ramadan in 2008.
According to the Yemen Observer, it cost US $60 million and was “built on the president’s expense” http://www.yobserver.com/news-varieties/10014876.html
It’s said to be the most decorated mosque in the world, Mohammed, our articulate guide told us. Most of the materials used to build it are from Yemen, though some of the marble is Italian. Six tall minarets in the Turkish style. (Traditionally minarets of mosques in Yemen are much shorter.)
The huge, multi domed structure, an island glowing white in a sea of bright green grass, the largest expanse of green I have ever seen in Yemen. Inside, a massive space, dark and cool. Colored patches floating on the thick, soft carpet from bright sun through colored glass. Soaring ceilings, brightly painted domes, intricate carvings.
Aside from our group and the accompanying guards, the mosque was almost empty. A lone man praying. Young men polishing and pushing mops. Veiled women who quietly approached us, offering brochures, booklets, and CDs promoting Islam.
Silent, gleaming elevators whisked us up to the women’s section, hidden behind a double set of ornately carved wooden screens, making it difficult to see below.
Three of the fully veiled women who accompanied us knelt on the thick, deep red carpet, and one of them chanted verses from the Koran in a lovely, melodious voice.
“Twenty women of this mosque know the entire Koran in here,” a woman said, touching her heart, “and twenty more know half of it. “We must preserve it in it’s true form, not even a single letter can be changed,”
“You mean the mosque built on money stolen from the people of Yemen”, Tanya yelled when I mentioned that I was going.
“Think of how many clinics and schools that would pay for,” she continued. “Only the president’s cronies would be caught dead there.”
Quite a few people in Yemen consider the mosque to be an abomination, the expense a huge drain on a poor country. But others consider the al-Saleh Mosque to be a *national wonder of Yemen*.
Named after President Ali Abdullah Saleh, the mosque was opened during Ramadan in 2008.
According to the Yemen Observer, it cost US $60 million and was “built on the president’s expense” http://www.yobserver.com/news-varieties/10014876.html
It’s said to be the most decorated mosque in the world, Mohammed, our articulate guide told us. Most of the materials used to build it are from Yemen, though some of the marble is Italian. Six tall minarets in the Turkish style. (Traditionally minarets of mosques in Yemen are much shorter.)
The huge, multi domed structure, an island glowing white in a sea of bright green grass, the largest expanse of green I have ever seen in Yemen. Inside, a massive space, dark and cool. Colored patches floating on the thick, soft carpet from bright sun through colored glass. Soaring ceilings, brightly painted domes, intricate carvings.
Aside from our group and the accompanying guards, the mosque was almost empty. A lone man praying. Young men polishing and pushing mops. Veiled women who quietly approached us, offering brochures, booklets, and CDs promoting Islam.
Silent, gleaming elevators whisked us up to the women’s section, hidden behind a double set of ornately carved wooden screens, making it difficult to see below.
Three of the fully veiled women who accompanied us knelt on the thick, deep red carpet, and one of them chanted verses from the Koran in a lovely, melodious voice.
“Twenty women of this mosque know the entire Koran in here,” a woman said, touching her heart, “and twenty more know half of it. “We must preserve it in it’s true form, not even a single letter can be changed,”
#7: My armed guard above Shibam, Yemen (Dec 2010)
The guard was not my choice or request. He came with me when I left the Seiyun Airport, and for two days accompanied me wherever I was driven
I emailed two dynamic women I met on a Sanaa Ornithological Club trip, hoping to join them on a hike to Bayt Baws or Wadi Dhahr. Unfortunately one wrote back to say they were leaving. Order came down from top of oil company X: Spouses leave Yemen now. Two dynamic women I met on a Sanaa bird club trip are already gone. Karen postponed her ticket twice; is now leaving Saturday. She does not want to leave, but is being forced to. The company will pay for the hotel in another country for as long as needed.
I learned Wednesday night that the order is not due to any change in the security situation here. Rather, the chief learned that certain security measures had not been installed as ordered. He wanted to punish.
I emailed two dynamic women I met on a Sanaa Ornithological Club trip, hoping to join them on a hike to Bayt Baws or Wadi Dhahr. Unfortunately one wrote back to say they were leaving. Order came down from top of oil company X: Spouses leave Yemen now. Two dynamic women I met on a Sanaa bird club trip are already gone. Karen postponed her ticket twice; is now leaving Saturday. She does not want to leave, but is being forced to. The company will pay for the hotel in another country for as long as needed.
I learned Wednesday night that the order is not due to any change in the security situation here. Rather, the chief learned that certain security measures had not been installed as ordered. He wanted to punish.
Thursday, February 4, 2010
# 6: The British Club
The British Club
Went to the members only British club last night with David. It’s one of few places to drink (alcohol) in Sana’a, and is not far from home. You can buy very expensive drinks at the Movenpik, Sheraton or Russian club, but these places are far over on the northeast part of town.
The British Club is a community, as well as a place to eat and drink. After going a few times, you’ll see familiar people, some of whom will buy you drink. There are dart matches and quiz nights, a good lending library, a pool table, and a small, cold swimming pool I’ve seen but never sampled.
There is an application fee to join and you must show your photo ID to enter. Security is tight. Knock on an unmarked black gate, be inspected by the guard, enter, and wait as he unlocks the door to the club. Drinks aren’t expensive and there is plenty to choose from. The food, including bacon and gammon steak, is good.
Women are a minority. By Yemen law, Yemenis are not allowed to join. Most members are connected to oil or to an embassy, but there are a few other teachers and NGO types.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
Monday, February 1, 2010
# 4 Flat tire in Bayt Baws
Originally uploaded by Kate B Dixon
The chap in the hat is strapping the flat tire to his motor bike so he could take it off to get fixed. Vincent, the guy in the black jacket, I met through a posting to a Flickr group. I love when online becomes in-person!
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